The Painted City

Trento isn’t as big as Florence or Rome and doesn’t attract as many tourists, but is definitely worth visiting. It is a hidden gem tucked away in the Adige valley. I spent the weekend in Trento, just a 30 minute’s train ride from Rovereto.

One of my favorite landmarks in the city is the church of Saint Apollinare beside the Adige river. It is rather plain compared to other churches of its size, but I think it has a simple elegance to it. I love its disproportionate stature, tall and narrow- as if Emma had designed it with a crayon. Surrounding the church are olive trees, rosemary bushes, and ancient headstones.

As I approached the old church, the wind blew my hair wildly in all directions. I walked by the tombstones on the wall, brushing some of them with my fingertips. The feeling was something between holy and eerie. I stared quietly at the headstones scattered on the grass, a few of them crumbling to pieces. Apparently some of them were Roman gravestones dating back to 23 B.C.

As I walked through the door, engraven figures of the saint the church is named after and an angel greeted me. The inside of the church matched the painted city: walls with pieces of fading old paintings uncovered. Light came in from one of the windows and some prayer candles were burning. For me it was a moment of perfect stillness. The light rested in the church and so did I.

Another site that brought me joy was the monument dedicated to Cesare Battisti. I saw it from afar off and determined to hike up to it. I crossed the bridge over the Adige, visited the church and a museum, and found the trailhead to a path that would lead me to the top of the ridge where the columns of stone stood. The path was in some places cobblestone steps, pavement, and dirt. Up and up it went, through woods and a stone arch and wrapping itself around the cliff for a view of the city below. I noticed a small street for cars to drive up top, but I was glad to enjoy the footpath. Hiking up gave me a good dose of satisfaction.

Trento is sprinkled with mid-evil touches, remnants from its past. The castle. The “green tower” that used to be connected to the gates of the castle as a point of entry. The culture!

I was invited to Trento for the Feste Vigiliane (festival). Aubrielle Banner and her husband live in Trento, and have for the last five years. They are from America but have decided to settle in this beautiful city despite the ongoing Visa battle. Soon they should be able to apply for long-term residency. I met the Banners at church and they kindly invited me to join them for the city festival and spend the night at their place!

The festival included concerts, dancing, food trucks, and various activities for families. The city was full of life, sound, and food.

I tried an arepa with platanos fritos from a Venezuelan food truck. Dinner never tasted so good at 11 o’clock at night.

My favorite part of the festival was watching the Big Band concert and swing dancing. If I knew that kind of swing, I would’ve joined in a heartbeat, but this style was way out of my realm of experience. I miss country swing so much. Watching the dance almost satisfied my craving, and it did bring me joy.

In fact, that moment seemed almost too good to be true. There I was sitting on the lush green grass under a glowing moon in front of an ancient castle watching people swing dancing on the cobblestone street at the city festival. It could have been a movie scene.

At the end of the night, we walked back to the Banner’s apartment. They live on a street right in the historic heart of Trento. I said more than three times, “I still can’t believe that this is where you live!” They love living here because they can walk everywhere. Walk to the store, to church, to the doctors, to the movie theater, to the restaurants, to the park.

Beyond the perfect location, the Banner’s apartment was simply adorable. Aubrielle decorated the place to perfection. Everything was crisp, clean, and classy. If you are looking for a place to stay in Trento, I’d highly recommend visiting the Banner family.

The Banners Airbnb their place out to tourists from many diverse countries, so they have practice being excellent hosts. I was beyond grateful for their hospitality. They told me that they can tell if their visitor is Italian from the very start if when invited to come inside they say, “Permesso.” It’s a polite Italian norm they suppose.

For breakfast Aubrielle made me a sweet little cup of chicory. On the stove she warmed milk with chicory, honey, and vanilla. It was delicious!

We went for a morning bike ride along the river trail and enjoyed the Italian mountains and countryside. I can see why the Banners love living here. Everything is beautiful, colorful, abundant, authentic. As we returned from the ride, we happened upon a farmers market at the city park. There were also stands selling antiques and used things.

During the course of my stay, I walked all over Trento multiple times. I was enchanted by the painted city, and also by its inhabitants. I saw more than just buildings and streets.

I saw them. The young man in a rush with a bouquet of red roses poking out of his grocery sack. The mother watching her baby crawl up the steps of the water fountain. The old ladies inside the church, bending a knee and making the cross as they entered and found a seat to pray. The tall man formally dressed, smoking a cigarette and looking up as if solving his problems on his chalkboard of sky. The teens jumping up and down to the dj’s music. The ruffled man at the train station asking for euros. The young couple wrapped in each others’ arms, sitting on the grass in front of me watching swing dance. The missionaries riding their bikes and waving as we crossed paths. The lady baker in the pastry shop looking blankly out the window. I saw all of them.

A city is nothing without its people. People bring culture, memories, ideas. People throw festivals. It was an honor to be a person there, just one small part of Trento for a day. Who was I in that city? An observer. Someone who noticed and was inspired. I didn’t stay in Trento for long, but Trento will linger in me.